[Leaving a bean too raw keeps it from exuding its natural sweetness]

The two recipes that follow bring out the color, texture, and flavor of fresh snap beans. In one recipe, grilling green beans gives them a slight nutty flavor. In the other, sautéing radishes with beans adds a water-chestnut- like crunch and a little bite and heat to the otherwise mild beans.

To prepare green beans, I prefer to snap just the stem end, leaving the beautiful line and point of the bean intact. I always blanch beans before grilling or sautéing them. Blanching beans keeps them bright green and ensures that they won't be undercooked. Leaving a bean too raw keeps it from exuding its natural sweetness just as surely as overcooking destroys its texture.

 Grilled Green Beans with Warm Gorgonzola Vinaigrette ( about 6 servings )

* 1 lb. green beans (about 5 cups)

* 1 tbsp. olive oil

* 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

* 1/4 cup crumbled Gorgonzola

* 1 tbsp. brown sugar

* 3/4 tsp. chopped garlic

* 3/4 tsp. chopped shallots

* 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme, or 1/4 tsp. dried

* 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh basil, or 1/4 tsp. dried

* Salt and pepper

In a medium saucepan, bring about 6 cups of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the beans and blanch them for 4 min. Drain the beans in a colander and immediately immerse them in an ice-water bath to stop them from cooking.

In a small saucepan, combine 1* tsp. of the olive oil and all the remaining ingredients. Warm over medium heat until the ingredients start to combine, about 7 min. Toss the green beans in the remaining olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Quickly grill the beans on a hot charcoal or gas grill, about 30 sec. on each side. Toss the beans in the warm vinaigrette and serve immediately.

Green Beans Sautéed

With Radishes and Rosemary ( About 4 servings )

 * 3/4 lb. green beans

(about 4 cups), snapped in half

* 5 large red radishes

* 1 tbsp. unsalted butter

* 1 tbsp. olive oil

* 1* tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary

* 3 scallions, finely sliced

* 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

* 1/4 tsp. salt

* 1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper

In a medium saucepan, bring about 6 cups of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the beans and blanch them for 4 min. Drain the beans in a colander and immediately immerse them in an ice-water bath to stop them from cooking.

Cut the radishes into matchsticks. To do this, first trim the roots and tops evenly. Next slice the radishes, from top to bottom, into 1/8-in. pieces. Then slice the pieces lengthwise to form matchstick shapes.

 In a non-stick pan, melt the butter on low heat and add the olive oil. Increase the heat to medium and add the rosemary. When the rosemary becomes aromatic, in about 3 min., add the beans, radishes, scallions, balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper. Sauté an additional 4 min. and serve immediately.